Posts Tagged ‘Prague’

30 days without supermarkets #26: defeat in Prague and glory of kitchen departments

Monday, August 1st, 2011

An onion-storer for the fridge

Much as I feared, I had to abandon the challenge today as the prospect of quickly finding a suitable independent food retailer  in central Prague was as likely as finding a greengrocer in Oxford Circus. There is one big fat supermarket in Prague, and it’s Tesco. I’m intriqued to know why by last year they had completely rebranded it in natural green and orange and with the name ‘My národní‘ with the Tesco logo and colours almost invisible in a tiny patch on the front of the 6-storey building.

One of my favourite shops in Prague is the household department of Kotva. The only thing that even nearly approaches this is the basement of Peter Jones, but this is several leagues better than that. This is a shop where you can buy several sizes and brands of  implements and devices whose function you can only guess at. This is a shop where you can get something that will slice a cucumber into one continuous spiral, or a bag of metal lids that can be clamped onto storage jars with the right jar-clamper, or a curved tube that turns a bottle of water into a jug, or a plastic screw-top onion that can be used to store unused bits of onion in the fridge (left).

I couldn’t quite place why I love this shop so much, and why it feels so different to similar shops in England, until I realised that it’s because it’s full of things that help you to do things yourself, rather than convenience and the pre-packaged.

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Hvala for the honey cake, Pauline

Thursday, May 26th, 2011

Pauline’s Cookbook is a wonderful blog maintained by Tonya Shuster. As she describes it, it’s a “memoir of sorts about my grandmother’s life, woven around the gift of a handmade pastry cookbook she cherished for nearly 80 years”.  The story is so poignant and so beautifully told, I’m not going to spoil it by retelling it in my own words – read it here on the page named after Pauline’s advice ‘Life is short, enjoy yourself’.  Pauline was born in Croatia in 1913 to Slovakian parents, and died aged 94 in 2007. I love sites like this, but especially this one as I have a passionate affinity with this part of the world from being a student in Zagreb in my 20s.

I found the site looking for a recipe. When I was in Prague last year, I went to the Krásny ztráty cafe  for afternoon tea with a Czech friend, who recommended the honey cake there. Prague honey cake is something of a legend, because of the extraordinary story of how a bit of bome-baking turned into a multimillion pound business (see a cut-and-paste of the story here). It is also one of the most delicious and unusual cakes I’ve ever eaten.  It has a bewitching flavour and texture, and it’s hard to work out exactly how it’s done.  It has the feel of a cake with a long history.

And it is. Thanks to Tonya Shuster’s labour of love, which is based on Pauline’s friend’s labour of love, here’s the recipe for Medovnik or ‘honey cake’ which retains lovely idiosyncrasies of the original like  “2 women’s handfuls of raisins”.

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Sod’s lore

Saturday, July 25th, 2009

I have a longstanding interest in folklore & folk music, particularly of Eastern Europe, so I got all excited when I discovered that there was a Folklore gathering in the Old Town Square in Prague, where I’ve just pitched up.  Unfortunately, I only had time to see the last act of the day, which, rather ironically, seeing as I’d come all this way in the hope of seeing something echt and Balkan, was the Kesteveen Morris group from Lincolnshire.

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